The cannon was primed with Vallejo Surface Primer Black and then give a coat of P3 Pig Iron with an airbrush. Though not visible from these pictures, shadows on the cannon were painted using thin coats of VMA Burnt Umber and VMA Black for the darkest shadow. Scratches and edge highlights were made with GW Mithiril Silver and the cannon body was given a pin wash of Secret Weapon Miniatures Armor Wash. The barrels were given the heat-distressed look using the method described by Ron of From the Warp blog fame.
That turned out great! I was just looking at the Vallejo Rust Washes today. I haven't tried them out, but I assume they are just a general matte wash in realistic colors?ReplyDelete
Also, I'm a little confused about the Chipping Fluid: is it ever a problem that too much paint of the main coat (Olive) chips off, or is hard to control? I've yet to try the hairspray method, but I've read about it with the same question ^ on my mind.
I saw your Centurions on DakkaDakka and Bolter&Chainsword and thought I'd check out your site. I like :D
The only Model Wash I have is Rust and is absolutely fantastic; it behaves very similar to the enamel washes that AFV modelers are fond of, but it is nontoxic.Delete
As far as the chipping fluid goes, you just have to be careful and avoid being heavy handed. Since it is activated by water, if there is an area you want to avoid, just don't put any water on it. I also use a tiny, cheap brush for larger areas and a sculpting tool for small scratches.
I had a request from someone on Dakka to do a more comprehensive tutorial on the technique, so I plan to have that done by this weekend. So keep an eye out if you are interested!