Monday, June 13, 2016
The client and I have decided to scrap the supplied base because it's a rather bland and boring desert scene that doesn't fit well when the model is painted in Poe's Black One livery. Instead, I will make a wooden base and paint to match Poe's helmet he's sporting in the Starkiller Base attack during the climax of The Force Awakens. I've also ordered some 3mm clear acrylic rods from Hong Kong to use for the custom base because they fit perfectly in the slot on the model for the supplied base.
Friday, June 10, 2016
|© Lucasfilm Ltd|
After the masking was complete, I sponged some liquid mask on and gave all of the soon-to-be orange panels a splotchy undercoat of Tamiya Flat White (XF-2) to make painting the orange easier and to give it a varied look. I mixed an orange using Vallejo Model Air Orange (71083), VMA White (71001) and VMA Yellow mixed 4:4:1 with just a touch of VMA Hull Red (71039) added to it (this is the same orange I used on BB-8). After a couple layers of that were on and dried, I sponged large sections of the panels with liquid mask and applied a darker orange on top. The darker orange similar to the previous mix except with a little less white and a full drop of VMA Hull Red. I also painted the handful of grey panels using VMA US Grey (71047) and Light Grey (71050) mixed 2:1.
|The bottom wing has been painted.|
Sunday, June 5, 2016
|© Lucasfilm Ltd|
There are two main issues that make it difficult to pull off a convincing black scale model. The first is that most real world objects that appear to be black aren't actually black. This is especially true in anything that has been exposed to the elements for a considerable amount of time, especially sunlight and heat. A great example of what sunlight and heat can do to a vehicle can be found in pictures of NASA's Space Shuttles:
|Space Shuttle Endeavour (OV-105)|
By putting all of this together, we can start to figure out how best to paint Poe's X-wing without it looking garish or out of scale. After priming the entire model with Alclad grey primer, I gave everything a coat of Tamiya German Grey (XF-63) with a couple of drops of Flat Blue (XF-8) added to it. A thin, splotchy coat of NATO Black, which despite it's name is actually a very dark grey, was added on top of the German Grey base color. These two colors make the "undercoat" of the model and is what will be showing under the paint chipping. I used a torn piece of foam to apply Vallejo Liquid Mask along the leading edges and anywhere paint chipping would accumulate. Once that was dry, I gave the entire model a light coat of Flat Black (XF-1) mixed 2:1 with German Grey, which served as the final "black" paint.