WIP: MK44H-0 Whiteknight

 

WIP: Arrostias, Myphitic Blight-Hauler

 

I spent the past weekend working on this Myphitic Blight-hauler for my burgeoning Death Guard army. I think the armor is where I want it to be with regards to weathering and now I just need to finish the base. I tried to strike a balance between a high level of finish and expediency since I have lots of other models in this army left to paint.

WIP: Ryefield Models T-34/85, Part IV

 

The first round of light colored chipping with a mix of Vallejo paints is done! I also painted the turret markings by hand instead of using the decals or masking and spraying them. This was done to better mimic how the markings were actually applied by the crews. 

Next up is the dark steel chipping that will have to be applied by brush and then I begin the real weathering.

WIP: Ryefield Models T-34/85, Part III

 

My initial attempt at two-tone camouflage was an unmitigated disaster, but instead of stripping the whole thing down, I just re-primed everything with black (except for the tracks and road wheels). From there, I went back with MRP 4BO Green as a basecoat, painted grime/shadows with a mix of Tamiya Flat Brown and Flat Black, and then worked in highlights by mixing ever-increasing amounts of AK Real Color 4BO (which is much too desaturated and nowhere close to the real thing) into some MRP 4BO. After that, I highlighted some details with Lifecolor Faded Olive Drab and a fine paintbrush. 

Up next is the turret markings, which I'm probably going to attempt to hand paint instead of using the kit decals.

WIP: Ryefield Models T-34/85, Part II

 

What a goddam roller coaster I’ve been on with this model over the last couple days.

I finally got around to priming the model, but for some dumb reason I decided to use an AK spray primer I had laying around because I was too lazy to turn my airbrush compressor on. Unfortunately, it appeared to have crazed the plastic, especially on the turret roof. Why I was debating on whether or not to strip it, I spilled a huge blob of MRP 4BO on the turret due to sheer clumsiness. That pretty much sealed the deal as far as stripping it goes, so off into SuperClean it went!

This afternoon, I pulled it out and scrubbed the paint off as best I could before sanding the shit out of the roof and then giving it a couple coats of Mr Surfacer 500. It’s not perfect by a damn stretch, but it’ll do because I want to move on with the build. I finished up by giving everything a healthy coat of MRP 4BO Green, probably the best out-of-the-bottle 4BO available.

In poking around the internet, I found an interesting camouflage scheme on a T-34/85 that features a base of 4BO with a pale greenish disruptive color over it. My friend and co-host Scott had the idea of using AK Real Colors “4BO” to serve as that color and my initial test shows that it seems to fit the bill quite nicely!

WIP: Ryefield Models T-34/85, Part I

 

Back in October 2020, my podcast started our first group build based around Ryefield Models new T-34/85 in 1/35 scale. Despite being the one to propose the group build, I dragged my feet in getting it built but I've finally gotten done!

WIP: Tamiya ISU-152

 

I'm continuing my 2021 journey of transforming my Shelf of Doom into the Well of Potential, this time taking aim at this Tamiya ISU-152 that I’ve had laying around for years. 

I painted this model sometime around February 2018, but it was only done in one color (MRP 4BO Green) and had then applied the decals. It stayed that way until this weekend, when I dug it out to reevaluate it. Taking inspiration from Martin's recent video series on his BMR-3M, I attempted a similar "pre-weathering" approach with my airbrush, taking care to work around the rather large decals.

I think it's in a good place at the moment, and this will be followed up with some earth and dust tones to begin the actual weathering.

WIP: Takom Mark I male, Part III

 

Since I'm still figuring out how to handle the dusty weathering on the lower hull, I decided to turn my attention to the sponson crane framework. 

I had long ago decided that the framework would be left as bare steel in order to contrast with the painted hull armor. Thanks to my circle of modeling friends, I've been expanding my library of modeling books, and in the age of digital publications, this has been easier than ever. One of my recent additions was Adam's Armour 2 by Adam Wilder, which aside from showcasing some of Adam's best work, features a chapter on painting bare mild steel.

I started with a grey-brown painted with a mix of Vallejo paints and after carefully masking the the top of the hull—including over the photo etch exhaust deflectors—I gave the frames a couple of coats of Ammo Scratches Effects. I mixed together a blue-grey steel color using Tamiya acrylics, sprayed the frames, and proceeded to chip them to serve as the base steel. On top of that, various rust enamels were blended over the surface and then darker tones were speckled on top of those, blending any specks that appeared too large. After everything dried, I added a couple areas of orangey rust tones using oils and then rubbed the edges with metallic pigment.

WIP: Takom Mark I male, Part II

 

Since I focused my effort into working on—and finishing!—the 1/48 scale Fine Molds TIE fighter, the Mark I had to take a bit of a back seat after I got the base colors and initial pin wash done. Returning to it now, I started to develop a weathering plan for using a combination of Andy Moore's fantastic build that was featured in The Modelling News and Martin Kovac's equally wonderful desert weathering video.

To begin with, I applied the oil paint rendering technique for discoloration mainly along panels and raised surface details. I primarily used 502 Abteilung Starship Filth and Industrial Earth, which I consider the two most versatile colors available for this kind of work. Following that, I gave the lower areas a predusting with a sandy color thinned heavily and built up lightly in a couple of layers, being careful not to completely erase some of the oil work I had previously done.

After evaluating what I had done thus far, I decided to add more visual interest to the the large vertical hull plates in the form of streaking using Ammo of Mig Streaking Grime and Starship Wash. I also took this opportunity to paint the sponson crane frames using a dark brown-grey that I mixed with a couple of Vallejo paints to serve as a base for a rusted bare steel effect.

WIP: Takom Mark I male, Part I

 

I know that the title says "Part I," but I must admit that is a little bit of a lie. The truth is that I've had this kit painted twice before. The original paint, which was water-based acrylic that I attempted and failed to chip, was painted over with a Tamiya mix, but I was again unhappy with it. I was on the verge of binning the entire kit, but decided to strip it and start again. 

This time, I primed it a dark red-brown I made mixing  a couple different Stynylrez primers together, sprayed a couple of coats of AK Scratches Effects, and then gave it a coat of Tamiya Khaki XF-49 to serve as the base drab color and then lightly chipped. This color, of course, is an approximation (I firmly believe that the exact color was lost to history) and that's good enough for me. After a coat of X-22 Clear, I added the handful of decals, four in total, and then went to work on pin wash using Mig Wash for Desert Sand Base and yes, this was applied to every rivet... Every. Single. Rivet.

From here, I'm unsure of what direction to take the weathering. I'm leaning towards adding some post-shading with an airbrush and definitely a nice pass of pre-dusting to kick off the weathering, which will eventually be a dusty and dirty finish (this is one of the eight tanks that were sent to Palestine in December 1916). Regardless, I'm pleased just by getting to this point considering the struggles I've had with this kit. Part of my new outlook of scale modeling has been to "let go," trust the process, and know that the finish will turn out okay. If it doesn't, just chalk it up to learning and move on to the next one. 

They don't all have to be barn-burners after all.

WIP: Ma.K Armored Fighting Suit C.D. Type, Part II

 

I got to spend a couple of hours working on oil paint rendering on the helmet and body. Most of the work was done with Abteilung 502 Industrial Earth and Faded UN White to add some grimey tones in the recesses and refine the whitewash, respectively.

There's more OPR in the future as I turn my attention to the lower areas. I also need to figure out what do with the hand, which has been left in the base olive drab so far.

WIP: Ma.K Armored Fighting Suit C.D. Type

 

This was my first go at a whitewash and it turned out... okay.

I initially tried Tamiya Flat White thinned with water, but it sprayed like shit and didn't chip the way I was used to so I tried to remove as much as I could, which left a kind of interesting effect. I added a couple more coats of chipping fluid and sprayed AKRC Off White thinned with MLT just over the OD areas and it chipped much better. This, of course, will be further enhanced with washes and OPR as I move on with the build.

WIP: Dragon StuG.III Ausf.G, Part IV

 

I spent some time flexing my Warhammer muscles and put some paint on the figures. Overall, I think they turned out okay and definitely look good in the hatches. In my reference photo, there's an Stg44 resting in the machine gun mount, but I couldn't get the kit parts to play well with the the figure standing in the hatch, so I'll leave it off for the time being.

WIP: Dragon StuG.III Ausf.G, Part III

 

For me, mounting the tracks is always a momentous occasion on an armor build; it signifies the beginning of the end of the build. I refined the mud from the earlier pictures and added some wet effects in a couple areas for more visual interest. 

Now I can turn my attention to mud and dirt effects on the upper hull, which I’m still trying to decide how to tackle and to what degree.

WIP: Dragon StuG.III Ausf.G, Part II

 

The dirt/mud is done on the lower hull... I think.

For the mud, I used Ammo of Mig acrylic diorama effects to serve as the base and to build volume. On top of that, I added multiple tones of Ammo enamel effects and topped it off with speckling for even more variance. I feel like there's more I could add but I can't quite put my finger on it. I also added some grime on the roof of the fighting compartment using oil paint rendering, which turned out okay I suppose. 

I'm getting excited because I feel like this is getting ready to cross the finish line!

WIP: Dragon StuG.III Ausf.G

 

Dragon StuG.III Ausf.G with concrete armor. Markings represent a vehicle captured by the 104th Infantry Division during the Battle of the Bulge. Aftermarket barrel from Aber, Masterclub tracks (not shown), and a partial resin interior set from CMK.

So far, everything has been painted using AK Interactive Real Colors and given a wash using Ammo of Mig Brown for Dark Green, probably the most versatile enamel wash on the market. From here, I will probably move onto the mud and dust effects.

WIP: Tamiya M4A3E8 (1/35 scale)

Since I'm still considered "expendable," err... I mean "essential," by my job, I'm still going to work. Luckily, we're now working four-tens, so I get a three day weekend! With that extra time, I decided to crack open the well-regarded Tamiya M4A3E8 in 1/35 scale.

I've added metal barrels for the main gun and both the .50cal and .30cal bow gun. I've also replaced the molded on grab handles with wire rod and added simple tool straps with some strips of Tamiya tape. The color was achieved by priming black and then giving the entire model a coat of XF-27 Black Green to work as the base color. From there, I painted everything with my favorite olive drab color, AK Real Colors Olive Drab #9/#22 (RC023). I did some paint distressing with AK Real Colors Olive Drab Faded (RC024) by painting streaks and using a photo etch splatter template. The hull stars were masked and painted and the blacked out turret star was painted by hand to simulate how it would look after the crew painted over the white star. I painted the tools, spare track links, and stowage (from Value Gear) and other details on the tank with various acrylics and enamel washes. From here, I'll give the model a coat of satin varnish to help with the pin washes, attach the stowage, and then begin proper weathering. I'm also awaiting some MasterClub T66 tracks because I don't want to use the kit rubber band tracks.

WIP: Takom Krupp 21cm Mörser 10 (1/35 scale), Part 2

Following a coat of Alclad gloss, I applied the awesome graffiti decals on the gun shield and barrel. The decals are extremely matte but seemed to go down better than the ones on the Whippet. I had to cut the "WPG" part of red lettering on the barrel off and apply it separately to make it fit properly. There is also a little curled piece on that part of the decal that I think is from my cutting it; I've tried to force it down with some MicroSol but haven't been successful. I'll most likely attempt to slice it off with a sharp scalpel blade. The carrier film is pretty obvious, but after they dry I'll seal them in with some gloss varnish followed by some matte varnish to hopefully make the carrier film disappear.

While the decals dries, I set to work adding some dirt and grime with 502 Abteilung oil paints. I used a couple of different browns to vary the finish, adding anywhere that gunk and dirt would likely buildup. I don't usually do this with oils as I much prefer using enamels, but I thought it would be a good way to practice a skill that I feel needs improvement.

WIP: Takom Krupp 21cm Mörser 10 (1/35 scale)

Fresh off the heels of my Whippet build, I decided to stick with the First World War theme and build this interesting little kit from Takom. The kit gives you two options for construction: the short-barreled 1910 model and it's replacement, the long-barreled 1916 model. I opted for the 1910 model because the painting guide shows a piece captured by Canadian soldiers of the 27th Battalion (City of Winnipeg) during the Battle of Vimy Ridge in April 1917. After the break, we'll dive into everything this kit has to offer.

WIP: Takom Medium Mk.A "Whippet" (1/35 scale), Part 3

Picking up where we left off on the last post, I move on to more identification painting and then weathering on the Whippet.