Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Tutorial: Chipping Effects with AK Interactive Chipping Fluid



So this is my first tutorial and the topic is how I use AK Interactive Chipping Fluid to create some nice weathering effects on tanks. Read more after the break.



 The first thing to do after the tank is assembled is to give a coat of primer. Since I want the basecoat a little brighter, I used Vallejo Surface Primer Grey. Take notice that the pieces are given a light coat of the Surface Primer and some of the plastic is showing through.

 The first color used was Vallejo Model Air Hull Red. I did not worry too much about making the basecoat 100% even since there will be multiple coats of other colors on top.

 The second color used was VMA Rust which is lighter than Hull Red. I know this may run contrary to what most people would do, but I wanted to keep the variation in colors a little more subtle. The color was applied in random splotches around the model.

 The next color was VMA Italian Red. This is a nice deep red that I felt goes well with the other colors. The red will also be toned down slightly once the filter is applied. Again, I applied this color randomly across the model.

 Next was some random, light patches of VMA Tank Brown. This was done just for a little color variation in random spots around the model.

 With all of the basecoat complete, I moved on to the sponge chipping. This was done in three layers; the first was a mix between GW Blazing Orange and VMA Tank Brown, GW Blazing Orange, and VMA Camo Black Brown. These were applied across the entire model with extra chipping on areas I knew would be exposed, such as edges on the armor.

 The final layer of color applied to the model was Vallejo Model Wash Rust. I applied two coats with the airbrush and used this as a filter to bring everything a little closer to a more natural rust color.

After the filter was dry, I gave the model a coat of Liquitex Matte Varnish and allowed it to dry. I then gave the model two coats of AK Interactive Heavy Chipping Fluid and left the model to dry for a hour or so.

After the Chipping Fluid was dry, I painted the model in my normal fashion. The model was given a basecoat of RMS Olive Shadow and the shadows were shaded with VMA Black, then given another thin coat of RMS Olive Shadow. I did this as a way to pre-shade the model before adding highlights with RMS Olive Drab and RMS Worn Olive. The diagonal stripe was masked with Tamiya tape and painted with VMA Black and highlighted with VMA German Grey.

After everything was allowed to dry for a couple of hours, I started the chipping process. I sprayed the areas I wished to chip with clean water through my airbrush and let it set for a couple minutes. I then used a Citadel Small Drybrush dipped in clean water and began chipping the paint with extra attention paid to areas I felt would receive the most wear, such as edges of armor, hatches, and the lower portion of the tank. After I was satisfied with the result, I allowed the model to dry overnight and gave the model a coat of Liquitex Satin Varnish to seal the model.

This was the end result:


1 comment:

  1. You call this a tutorial? Lol. Dude. You just wrote a step by step on how you painted a tank. Things to consider:

    How do you apply the chipping fluid? Brush? Cotton tipped applicator? Other?

    Do you apply the chopping fluid on dry paint or wet paint? What are the results of each?

    Does humidity play a role?

    Does the chipping fluid work better with acrylics or enamels? Does it matter? What are the affects of each?

    Do you apply the chipping fluid in one layer or multiple?

    When do you apply the topcoat? When the chipping fluid is dry completely or do you want some wetness?

    Being an expert on a topic makes people trust you. If you aren't the expert on this technique then please don't crowd our Google Results page with diary entries like this.

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